Many other south Indian biryanis deserve their place at the table, even as the self-appointed ‘experts’ continue to scoff.

Ambur Biryani hails from Tamil Nadu and is famous for its seeraga samba rice and spicy meat gravy. This biryani is traditionally cooked over wood fires, giving it a distinctive smoky flavour.

Practically every table ordered the same item off the menu: biryani chunky with tender mutton and stocky seeraga samba rice. Judging by social media reviews of the 400 people who ate on the first ...